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Headlight/wiring/charging Upgrades

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Headlight/wiring/charging Upgrades

Post by a2ndopinion on Sat Nov 10, 2012 3:51 am

Is anyone interested? Anyone? Buelller? Bueller?

I'm working on E-code lenses, H4 bulbs, and wiring/relay upgrades if anyone wants to see what the difference is, and what's involved. In the process, I'm also working on/upgrading the charging system.

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Re: Headlight/wiring/charging Upgrades

Post by RT85CORONA on Thu Nov 15, 2012 1:42 am

i would be interested

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Re: Headlight/wiring/charging Upgrades

Post by a2ndopinion on Tue Dec 04, 2012 12:10 am

These are Euro Conversion (E-code) light housings that come with considerably brighter H4 replaceable 60w (high) and 55w (low) bulbs. The E-code has a distinct cut off line so as to not offend oncoming drivers. These are law in European countries, but are "illegal" in the US (and who the F knows why). Everyone I know of that have these on their cars love them, and have never been hassled by the cops for them. The "Autopal" brand lights are considered to be very good quality, but are considerably cheaper than Hella or Cibie housings. This gives you the advantage of replacing just the bulb itself, not the entire light when they go out, like modern cars.

These are the round outer high/low beams, pair:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

These are round one high/low (outer) and one high (inner), so you would have to order two sets:
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These are the round highs only (inner), pair:
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Should these listings expire, just look in eBay motors for "Autopal", and you are looking for the 5001/5006(4000) H4 conversion lights (5.75" / 5 3/4" / 165mm) for those with round lights (FTW!).


For those with rectangular lights (165mm x 106mm), the H4651 (high)/H4656 (low) lights are:

Highs (pair):
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Lows (pair):
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Both - one each high/low and high (need two sets):
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BTW - DO NOT get the "Diamond cut", "Crystal" or "upgrade" to the "ultra-blue"... bulbs, as these are stupid gimmicks that put out less usable light and/or in a poor pattern. The blue lights are not in the usable light spectrum for human eyes, so you actually see worse.

Also, check Daniel Stern Lighting ([You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]) for info on improving the power available to your headlights, as your 30+ year old wiring doesn't supply the power they really need.
"How To" help:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

More power (with the Tim Allen grunt):
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Aiming E-code and US spec headlights and fog lights:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

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Re: Headlight/wiring/charging Upgrades

Post by a2ndopinion on Tue Dec 04, 2012 12:13 am

Here's the headlight covers to protect the new E-code lenses and H4 bulbs, made out of Lexan:
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Re: Headlight/wiring/charging Upgrades

Post by a2ndopinion on Tue Dec 04, 2012 12:16 am

I'm sorry I didn't get pics of the whole thing now...
How this started, besides buying the lights through eBay - I wanted to protect those E-code lenses. I measured the frame around the headlight surround to figure out how much Lexan I needed, then went to The Home Depot and picked up a sheet:
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and this tool for cutting it:
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I then transferred my measurements to the Lexan protective cover and attempted to cut the Lexan - what a major PITA! I used my machinist straight edge for starters, then finally clamped it into the vise and bent it over to crack it at the scribed lines, as it would have taken multiple hours to cut through it.

My next stop was my local Ace Hardware Store - Suburban Ace, in Aloha, OR. They have an amazing selection of fasteners! It's the kind of place you walk through and try to figure out where you can use some of the fasteners as they are so cool looking. I chose the security torx drive screws and also bought the bit, even though I knew I had one or two - this one will stay in the glove box.
Luckily for me, the Corona has a double sided frame around the headlights, so there was meat to screw into. I started by aligning the Lexan with the frame and with the auto punch, center punched a spot to drill the first hole. I used the correct size for the screw to screw into, drilled through the Lexan and frame, then drilled the hole in the Lexan big enough for the screw to go through, and ran the first screw in. I then center punched the other five, drilled them with the smaller bit, then through the Lexan again with the bigger bit and then put the screws in, and then repeated on the other side, and voila! as you can see above, protective Lexan covers for my E-code H4 headlights.
Now that the covers are done and installed, I'm finally going to swap the lights tomorrow night,. I'll do it after dark so I can get before and after pics, which I'll post here.
I'm also going to update the headlight wiring before winter sets in as covered here - [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] and will update this thread with before and after pics of that as well.


Last edited by a2ndopinion on Tue Dec 04, 2012 12:21 am; edited 1 time in total

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Re: Headlight/wiring/charging Upgrades

Post by a2ndopinion on Tue Dec 04, 2012 12:17 am

I was trying to get before and after pics of the headlights illuminating on a wall, but another of the stock lights went out, so I had to put in one of the new E-code H4s. I did a one and the other instead, but they are obviously not adjusted the same.
If you can't tell, the stock light is on the top in both series below.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.] [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]


[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.] [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]


When I get the other light in and adjust them "by the book" (see my first post), I'll post more pics.
I'm going to do the electrical upgrade as Daniel Stern's website (see the first post) covers in the very near future as well. I'm working on upgrading the wiring charge, grounds, power, stereo/amps, adding an electric fuel pump so I can swap in the sidedrafts, electric fan... so I'll post it as I get there.

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Re: Headlight/wiring/charging Upgrades

Post by a2ndopinion on Tue Dec 04, 2012 12:19 am

Okay, now an interesting issue! I noticed that on low beam, the inner high beams were glowing. Then turning on the high beams, the inner lights were plenty bright, but the outer lights were only glowing, as pictured:

On low beam
[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

On high beam
[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

On low beam, I'm very happy with the light:
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But I still have this issue to take care of! I'm figuring that this must be because the grounds are not sufficient. I was just going to upgrade the grounds, but our lights have a (compliments of Daniel Stern) "ground-switched" headlamp circuit. "In these circuits, the headlamp and beam selector switch break or complete the ground side of the headlamp circuit, rather than the feed side. On these systems, it's imperative to use both negative and positive existing headlamp wires to trigger the relays." I guess to make it easy on myself, I might just order his complete kit for upgrading...

I'll update this as I get more done.

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Re: Headlight/wiring/charging Upgrades

Post by RT85CORONA on Tue Dec 04, 2012 2:45 am

wow this is way better than oem quality i will have to do more research on this for my 6" round lights

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Re: Headlight/wiring/charging Upgrades

Post by Lope70Mark2 on Wed Dec 05, 2012 12:08 am

These are round one high/low (outer) and one high (inner)

I ordered this kit, and for the relay diagrams. Is that just for upgrading, or is that recommended for the conversion?

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Re: Headlight/wiring/charging Upgrades

Post by a2ndopinion on Wed Dec 05, 2012 10:08 pm

Check your wiring schematic. If it is like the newer ones (my '81), the headlight switch supplies power to the lights, but the high/low dimmer switch provides the ground. With the higher amperage draw from these new lights, it backfeeds through the grounds, causing the issue of glowing high beams when on low beam, and the outer lights (low/high) only glowing when on high beam (see my pics, above).
The fix is as Daniel Stern explains on his site ([You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]) - using individual relays for the low beams and high beam circuits, and using 12-10ga wire from the battery to the lights and from the lights to ground. For the low beam, the OE low beam power wire goes to the 86 post, the low beam ground to the 85 post, battery power to the 30 post, and the 87 post going to the (2) low beams. For the high beams, another relay with OE high beam power wire going to the 86 post, the high beam ground to the 85 post, battery power to the 30 post, and the 87 post going to the (4) high beams. Then at the headlights, run the ground to ground. This gives you straight battery voltage to your headlights, not reduced power after traveling over like 20 feet through insufficiently gauged wire.
I'm using 10ga wire, marine grade from [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]. They have stores in 39 states, so check their website. I bought black for ground, red for the battery power, orange for the low beams and blue for the high beams. This should provide plenty of electrical power, and the superb quality of the marine grade wire should outlive me. West Marine also has terminal ends and a industrial crimper you can use once you get all of your wiring sorted out. While I'm at it, I'm upgrading all of my battery and charge wiring and grounds with BIG color coded marine grade wire, terminal ends, shrink tubing and marine battery terminals.
Oh - and lastly, with four 60w lights on at once, they will be drawing about 20 amps (compared to maybe 12 stock), so a 30-35 amp alt may have trouble keeping up if the heater is blowing, wipers on, stereo blasting... Time for an alternator upgrade! For those of you with a 2xR, [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]!

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