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Fredricks 1971 Corona MarkII EmptySun Dec 16, 2018 11:08 am by coleslaw

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Fredricks 1971 Corona MarkII EmptyThu Aug 17, 2017 9:52 pm by RT85CORONA

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Fredricks 1971 Corona MarkII

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a2ndopinion
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Fredricks 1971 Corona MarkII Empty Fredricks 1971 Corona MarkII

Post by Fredricktflail Mon Nov 19, 2012 3:50 pm

I just picked up this MarkII sedan off my local Craigslist for a couple hundred bucks, Its a 1.9 8R-C with a automatic. I fell in love with it the first time I seen it.

Here it is after being pushed away from dudes barn.
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The story on it is, These 2 brothers were using it as a project and were driving it around til the carb crapped out or so they say. They went to rebuild the carb and screwed it all up and decided they wanted to take the manifolds off and snapped off 2 of the 4 bolts that sandwich the manifolds together and screwed that all up, in the process the must have pitch the bolts for the manifolds and hood in the bushes. Dont you just love project cars. I got new bolts and studs for it and a new gasket set already. My problem now is getting those snapped off blots out. but heres the car

Just got it home
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After I cleaned it up a bit and got the hood back on.
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The engine bay
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Inside is pretty tore up
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This must be a vintage toyota evap system.
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Any help or information is will be greatly appreciated.
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Post by Lope70Mark2 Mon Nov 19, 2012 6:06 pm

ok...I see that alot (evap system). My corona never came with one. I'm wondering if it ever did or the previous owner removed it. hmmmmmm
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Post by Fredricktflail Mon Nov 19, 2012 7:06 pm

Is your a California I imagine the federal cars of this era dont have one.
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Post by Fredricktflail Mon Nov 19, 2012 7:45 pm

Ya seats are in horrible shape.
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This door is the only bad part on the body, I'm sure ill find one someday when i'm concerned about it.
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Cant really do anything to the engine at the moment so i decided to start on the interior
got it all out.
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Next thing on my list is to get my trunk lid open somehow.
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Post by Fredricktflail Thu Nov 22, 2012 9:23 pm

I got the manifolds and carb back on and hooked up a redneck fuel system ans managed to get it running. Problem is i cant figure out how to hook the throttle pedal up or the kickdown rod i think im missing something?

What do you think?
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Post by Fredricktflail Sun Dec 09, 2012 5:32 pm

I guess this posted this in the wrong section since its a RT62 oh well though i got the year right its a 71. I've been working on the car on my days as much as possible when its not raining. I got the throttle and kickdown cable hooked up fixed so wiring and got the brakes working, I also went to the dmv and the insurance man and got it legal for the road. Turns out the gas tank has holes punched in it. My thought is since the trunk lid is rusty and leaks that the trunk was filled full of water and a last owner punched holes for drainage in the tank not knowing thats what it was.
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I never seen a gas tank that comes out the trunk.
I dont know if youll be able to see the hole at the end of the pick but theres several of these.
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I gonna try to repair it with fiberglass hopefully that will fix it. none of the gauges work and the blinker flasher is bad and i'm missing the accelerator pump rod and some other stuff from the carb but it will be drivable one i fix the gas tank.
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Post by Lope70Mark2 Sun Dec 09, 2012 9:45 pm

Check out my build. I did a quick job on my tank. And it seems to be holding up.
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Post by Fredricktflail Mon Dec 10, 2012 12:38 am

I kinda like what you did better than my idea.
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Post by Fredricktflail Thu Jan 03, 2013 12:41 am

Despite not have a gas tank, Ive been driving the car around prolly put 30 miles on it in the past two weeks. but its driveable besides the 2 gallon gas tank i was running under the hood,and the water leak which turned out to be this.
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While stuff is a a part and im waiting for payday ive been doing random stuff.
Like I cleaned out the little vent thing where the wiper arms are.
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It was hammered as u can see I should prolly take the fenders off too I bet theres some more leaf and sticks in there.
It was also a wireing mess when i got it Ive got it cleaned up pretty good now
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Also got the grill off for cleaning and painting.
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Heres a pic of it and the rolling scrap metal i drive everyday a 87 Corolla
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Its coming along pretty good, itd be going a lot faster if i had more money lol but Im trying. Next thing on my list is I want a 5 gallon fuel cell hope to be buying it within the next 2 checks then its on the streets.

Oh ya and I kinda like tire smoke.
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Post by Fredricktflail Sun Jan 13, 2013 10:49 pm

I was able to get the plug out and i have a plug.
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But i was unable to get it so i was forced to do this.
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Ahhh Shit Yota block swangin lol
This is like the forth toyota engine ive layed on the floor
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A engine mount was broke or broke in the process of removing it I'm waiting on those before i put it back in
I got some cleaning done under the hood too
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I'm surprised every time ive driven the car i get complements on it I thinks its awesome haha.
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Post by RT85CORONA Tue Jan 15, 2013 1:30 am

these coronas are awsome thanks for posting .. that sucks about your engine .. what do u plan on doing ? rebuild or drop another motor?
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Post by Fredricktflail Wed Jan 16, 2013 1:42 am

Thanks, the engine is fine, it just had straight water in it for so long it rusted to core/freeze plugs out, I wasent able to get them in with the engine in the car. I'm waiting on some motor mounts and its going back in.
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Post by RT85CORONA Fri Jan 25, 2013 3:26 am

just a thought where are u locating your parts from?
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Post by Fredricktflail Fri Jan 25, 2013 9:02 pm

I look all over the internet ive only bought 3 parts though.
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Post by Fredricktflail Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:50 pm

Well I got the engine back in the car. Now its parked outside on the back burner for a bit. I gotta rebuild the front end on my Corolla.
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Post by Fredricktflail Tue Jan 29, 2013 12:10 am

Welp another set back. It appears the core plug in the back of the block is now leaking lol. Thats just a guess but i dont know what else there is to leak. So I guess the engine has to be removed again, me and this corona are having one fun relationship. What I want to know is"How long does it take for straight water to rust threw a metal plug?"
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Post by a2ndopinion Tue Jan 29, 2013 4:33 pm

It depends on the water, temperatures, electrolysis... I remember "back in the day" it was common to be replacing them on cars that were as young as 10 years old. I've always had the feeling that if one is bad, replace them all!
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Post by Fredricktflail Wed Jan 30, 2013 2:27 am

I did all the other ones, i was trying to avoid pulling the trans off guess that dident work.
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Post by a2ndopinion Wed Jan 30, 2013 1:31 pm

Fredricktflail wrote:I did all the other ones, i was trying to avoid pulling the trans off guess that dident work.
Never have time to do it right the first time, but always have time to do it over! Very Happy
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Post by Fredricktflail Thu Jan 31, 2013 1:10 am

I wasent entirely sure there was even one back there. Hell I still really dont know.
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Post by Fredricktflail Thu Feb 14, 2013 12:06 am

A small update I still havent fixed the core plug but i got around to checking out why i was loosing brake fluid and im still not complety sure I thinks its leaking into the booster or the brake line going to the driver side front tire. I did find out that the power booster is junk though. Im want to order a weber kit for it since i can afford it. I'm wondering if anybody knows if the weber kit works with the Mark II?
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Post by Lope70Mark2 Thu Feb 14, 2013 2:14 am

Just buy the correct weber kit for the motor you have, dont worry about the car make....which I believe is a 8rc or 18rc which should be the same kit, if not the adapter will work and you might just need to adjust the jetting accordingly.

Im about to hook up a weber on my 18rc. PM me if you want details and links on what Im doing, or wait til I update my build.
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Post by Fredricktflail Thu Feb 14, 2013 11:48 am

I'm prolly just gonna go ahead and buy it.
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Post by Fredricktflail Sat Feb 16, 2013 9:22 pm

I decided against buying a Weber carb since theres a lot of other things that could use that moneys attention. But I got into a pickle trying to buy a Mobil 1 oil filter. I was at one of my local orileys and they looked the number up and I confirmed it later well anyway the filter they gave me was M1-205 which as the pressure by pass to close to the bottom of the filter for it to work with that tube the 8RC has on the filter shaft. The K&N filter was the same way. Luckly I work at a Fast lube place and see oil filters all day long and we looked the filter number up which it gaves us our house Filters number which is a service champ WPH561 same filter thats fits a VW 2.0 our filter will work cause it cheap and dosent have a by pass at all, but it cross-references to the same Mobil 1 filter. So I crossed it a fram number which came up as a ph2870 which they no longer use that number they changed it to ph3600 which is the filter a lot of I4 and V6 fords use FL-400. The Ford filter is to short though, But most after market filters for the ford are longer so I crossed that to be a Mobil 1 M1-209 Asked for a filter for a 98 f-150 with a 4.2. But i went threw the trouble of telling this story so I could give a list of oil filters that work with the 8r.

Fram/Microguard Ph3600
Mobil 1 M1-209
Service Champ/Warner wph561/0f252
Napa 1512


Last edited by Fredricktflail on Sun Feb 17, 2013 3:24 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post by Lope70Mark2 Sat Feb 16, 2013 9:40 pm

Yea I had that problem too. Probably bought the same one. Ended up getting the Fram.
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